Showing posts with label drag. Show all posts
Showing posts with label drag. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

How to fit a Large LAMBORGHINI into a small room

Lamborghini Aventador assembled in a room
Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4 assembled in a small room – Click above to watch the video after the jump
There is a lot going on with the Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4. The Raging Bull’s new range topper features a 691-horsepower V12 that can propel the world’s fanciest door stop to 60 miles per hour in a scant 2.9 seconds. The Aventador looks good enough to cause whiplash injuries from rubbernecking onlookers. We could gush endlessly about Italy’s newest exotic, and at the end of the day there will always be room in our driveway for such a supercar.
But what about our living room? The folks at Lamborghini needed to deliver an Aventador to a Lamborghini Museum exhibition called “La Forza del Toro” at Chiostro del. Unfortunately, the Great Room-sized space reserved for the exotic contained no entryway large enough to drive the Aventador through, but that’s when Italian ingenuity comes into play. Instead of knocking down a wall or lifting a ceiling, Team Lambo simply delivered an Aventador in pieces, then put them together on the spot. The end result is a fully functional Aventador for the “La Forza del Toro” exhibit.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

LEARNING A WHEELIE










For some people the wheelie seems like an impossible trick. I have friends that still can’t wheelie after practicing for years. If you seriously want to learn this trick then read on. If you lack the passion to learn and you become discouraged easily, forget about learning the pop up wheelie.











Step #1: You will probably hit the ground. Wear protective gear. Chances are, you will loop backwards, land on your tail bone, smack the back of your skull and spin a pedal into your shin bone. 
Step #2: Practice with platform pedals. Leave the BMW Shin Burger Pedals in the tool box. A clipped in wheelie is a suicide mission.
Step #3: If your seat height is higher than your handlebars, lower your seat. Install a stem 100 mm long or less.
Finally, it’s time to practice! This trick is much easier on a mountain bike than a BMX bike. Mountain bikes are very stable on the rear wheel. The front of the bike is fairly easy to lift up and the long wheel base inspires confidence. Bikes with chain stays less than 17″ are easier to learn on.
Step #4: Try your first attempt pedaling up hill. Not up Pikes Peak, but up a gradual hill. If you begin to wheelie, you will spaz out and pedaling harder to keep the front wheel up. Pedaling up hill will add resistance. This resistance will counter your spastic pedaling forces and should help keep your front wheel up. After mastering the up hill wheelie, you can practice on flat ground. In order to wheelie on flat ground, you’ll have to slow down by modulating the rear brake. This is a tricky move, since squeezing the rear brake will force the front tire back down to the ground.
Step #5: Do not practice on a windy day. The wind will push your front wheel away from you. Even the slightest blow will affect your wheelie. It is possible to ride a wheelie in the wind, but it takes a lot of practice. I met a surfer kid in Clearwater, Florida who could wheelie his BMX bike on wet sand, fighting constant 25 mph winds, bare foot with no brakes.
Step #6: Stay seated; utilize a combination of the forks rebound, upper body strength and power on the cranks to loft the front of your bike in the air. Try using the middle chainring and the 32 tooth cog on the rear gear cluster. You need to choose a gear that will maintain the wheelie and is easy to lift the front wheel at slow speeds. You can shift gears while in a wheelie. It’s very difficult to do. I’ve seen people carry 30 mph wheelies shifting and pedaling.
Step #7: Relax. Loosen up on the handlebars and go with the flow. Let your arms stretch out, look far ahead and breath. You will need to steer the bike with body English. Keep your feet to the outside of the pedals and apply pressure to each pedal accordingly. Try to not lean your body with the bike. Leaning in the same direction as the bike will cause you and the bike to turn. This is an advanced move. Try and ride a straight line for now. Eventually, you will feel the sweet spot. Riding a wheelie is almost effortless. If you’re exerting yourself, you’re working too hard.
The wheelie is the trick you will base all other tricks on. Once you have mastered it, you can practice “coaster wheelies”. (A sit down wheelie while not pedaling, usually performed down hill). Once you learn the coaster wheelie, you should try “manuals”. Manuals are easily mistaken with coater wheelies, but they’re much harder. Basically a manual is a stand up coaster wheelie.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Ferruccio Lamborghini

Ferruccio Lamborghini was born in Italy in 1916. He was fascinated with engines from an early age. During World War II he joined the army and was stationed on the island of Rhodes. Fortunately there was little going on there during the war.  The island was essentially isolated from the rest of the world. Any cars, trucks or motorcycles that broke down had to be repaired on the spot with reused parts.  Lamborghini became known as a wizard at mechanical improvisation and became very much in demand at fixing engines.
After the war he returned to his home near Modena in northern Italy and setup a small car and motorcycle repair shop.  He soon realized that there was a desperate need for tractors in the agricultural area in which he lived. He found he could build about one tractor a month from derelict military vehicles. As Italy’s economy grew demand for his high quality tractors started to grow. He began building his own tractor engines. His tractor business became very successful reaching a rate of over 400 a month in 1960. He soon looked at expanding the business and in 1960 began manufacturing heaters and air conditioning units for buildings as well as maintaining the tractor business. This too became very successful.
About this time Lamborghini started to get interested in developing a high performance car. He had owned Oscas, Maseratis and Ferraris but was always disappointed with them.  Particularly their engines. There is a now famous story about how he was frustrated with problems he had with a clutch in a Ferrari (a Ferrari 250 GT), and went to visit Enzo Ferrari who’s factory was nearby. Enzo had no time for a tractor manufacture and simply dismissed him. Lamborghini decided there was nothing Ferrari was doing he could not do better. He decided too build his own car with a V12 engine.  For the design he found a very talented engineer named Giampaolo Dallara who had previously worked on a Ferrari V12 engine.

The new engine had 4 cams, a short stroke and 4 big bore valves per cylinder.  It developed a surprising 350 HP. It was an all aluminum engine with a crankshaft supported by seven main bearings. These crankshafts were machined from SAE 9840 steel.  The connecting rods (12) were of SAE 4340 steel. The pistons were of forged aluminum. Each pair of camshafts were driven by their own half engine speed sprocket and silent chain.  This engine was really the prototype for all future Lamborghini engines. A body designed by Scaglione-Touring was used to house the engine.The Lamborghini “350 GTV” prototype was shown to the public on the Turin Auto Show of 1963. Sales started the following year. The car was called the 350 GT. It was a complete success.  Over 130 were sold.The future of Automobili Lamborghini looked very bright during the sixties. The 350 GT was succeeded by the 400 GT and then the  400 GT 2+2.  The 350 GT and 400 GT 2+2 made the Lamborghini name known throughout the world. With the funds coming in from these cars and his successful tractor business Ferruccio allowed his engineers to design and construction a new car – the Lamborghini Miura. The Miura made the Lamborghini name legendary. It was a car truly ahead of its time. It shocked even companies like Ferrari and Maserati.
The Miura was first shown on November 1965 at the Turin Auto Show by Ferruccio Lamborghini himself. Only the chassis was shown at the show, the engine was transversely mid-mounted, something up to then only seen in real F1 race cars. The design of the body was executed by Marcello Gandini in less than a year, and on the March 1966 Geneva Show it was completed and on display. It looked even better than in Turin. The car was very aggressively styled, and an appropriate name was chosen for it, the Miura, a name taken from the ferocious Spanish fighting bulls.  Again the car was a complete success.
This was followed in 1973 at the Geneva Auto Show when Lamborghini shocked the world again with his revolutionary LP400 Countach. Only a prototype was shown. Today it is difficult to realize the impact that car had on everybody at that time. Even now the car is a show stopper! The car at the show was painted in a bright red and with a black suede interior. It showed for the first time, the by now, famous, Lamborghini signature swing up doors. It also displayed unique vertically mounted rear air intakes to go with its powerful 4 Liter engine.
In 1974 disaster struck.  The Lamborghini tractor business received a major setback. A massive order for tractors to a south American country was cancelled. Lamborghini anticipating the demand, had previously upgraded the tractor factory to be able to build the numbers of tractors required. The company lost a lot of money over it. Compounding things also at this time was a series of labor problems at the factory. While his personal fortune was still considerable he decided to sell part of his share in the factory. Eventually the factory was taken over by Fiat.
During the seventies the company survived on sales of Miura’s. The car business started to be self sufficient and make money.  However Lamborghini eventually sold all his remaining stock in the company to a Swiss investor.  The company to this day still retains his name however.  Ferruccio Lamborghini died in February 1993 at the age of almost 76
The oil crisis of the 70′s started to made sales of high performance cars difficult.  Production art the factory was plagued with budget and parts supply problems.  People gave up waiting for cars with two year back orders. A wealthy Canadian, Walter Wolf,  played a major role is supporting Lamborghini and developing the Countach during these difficult times.
In 1978 the company declared bankruptcy. An Italian court was appointed to find a buyer.  A Swiss based group called the Mimran brother’s were able to save the factory. Patrick Mimran (one of the brothers),  in 1980 started to turn the company around. The Countach was developed further under him from the LP500 S right up to the impressive QuattroValvole. .
Just as things were going well, the Mimran brothers sold the company to Chrysler Corporation.  This was a big surprise at the time.  Chrysler support however was just what the company needed at that time. They were working on a Countach successor –  the Diablo. Chrysler kept the winning team together in Italy. While the cultures of the two companies were different and things got stressful between the management groups, they did succeed in bringing the vast resources of Chrysler to bear on the  design, pollution controls, and new manufacturing techniques etc. for the new car.
Again the result was an outstanding success. The new Lamborghini Diablo got rave reviews everywhere it went.  However in another twist of faith, in 1994 Chrysler fell upon hard times and had to sell the company. It was bought by an Indonesian investment group headed by Tommy Suharto of the well known Suharto family.  Unfortunately in the late 90′s an economical crisis started to hit the Indonesian owners hard and the much needed money for research on a successor to the Diablo started to dry up.
Fortunately the German company Audi had an interest in Lamborghini. On August 4 1998, in a complex series of transactions Audi AG became the sole owner of Automobili Lamborghini. As in the case of the Chrysler buyout, this could not have been a better time for Lamborghini. Audi took an active role in designing the Murcielago and brought to the table again the vast resources of a major automobile company to develop and produce another exotic car.
Lets hope this is the last chapter of ownership changes in this unique little Italian car company.  It is to the credit of the people there that they have hung in to all the changes of ownership they have experienced over the years and yet produced such exciting cars.

Thursday, November 10, 2011

How To do A Burnout

Burnouts with cars are where the wheels spin, often causing a large amount of smoke, but the car does not move until the driver “pops” the car into motion. Burnouts are also known as brake burns, roll-backs and wheel-spins, depending on the technique. Heat caused by the inability of the tires to gain traction with the road, and instead suffer extreme friction causes a lot of squealing, smoke and burnt rubber.
Burnouts began in drag racing where there was a real reason for them: Drag racing tires must be heated before a race and a burnout is the best way to accomplish this goal. Burnouts also help clean drag racing tires, which is where the two strips of rubber on the pavement come from. Today, burning out has become an art in itself and competitions are held worldwide.
Burning out a regular car is a whole other matter, and cannot be done well in any old car (especially four cylinders) as they typically do not have the power/weight and torque dynamics, and obviously have the wrong kind of tires. Doing a burnout on street tires makes a lot of smoke, removes layers of expensive rubber, and accomplishes nothing of dynamic significance besides enjoyment. It can be done though,

Steps

  1. Find out if you have a front wheel drive (FWD) or a rear wheel drive (RWD) car.
  2. Check your hand brake, also known in slang as an E-brake, is functioning well.

Front Wheel Drive Cars

  1. Put the car in first gear.
  2. Hold in the clutch.
  3. Rev. the engine.
  4. Pull on the handbrake. Alternatively, you can skip this step.
  5. Release the clutch.
  6. Move the handbrake up and down to control the burnout.
  7. To stop the burnout ease off the accelerator and free the brake.
Rear Wheel Drive Cars
  1. Do a Basic RWD Burnout.
    1. Lightly hold down the brake with your left foot.
    2. Push the accelerator until the car moves forward a tiny bit.
    3. At the same time floor the gas and press the brake harder.

Manual Rear Wheel Drive Cars

    1. Depress the clutch, and rev the engine.
    2. In one quick motion, “dump” the clutch and press the brake pedal while flooring the gas.
  1. Use a line locker. A line locker is a device that modifies a car so the brake pedal only engages the front brakes. This dangerous and usually illegal device makes burnout on RWD cars easier and more dramatic. A line lock is a solenoid (fancy name for a switch) that gives you some extra buttons in the drivers seat to control your brakes. To do a burn out with a line locker installed:
    1. Step on the brakes.
    2. Push the line lock button.
    3. Release the brake pedal leaving your front brakes on and disengaging your back brakes, leaving those wheel free to spin, burn and make smoke.
    4. Release the line lock button to release the front brakes and move forward.
  2. Do a donut. A doughnut (donut in the USA) is a circular burnout. To do a donut in RWD cars:
    1. Find a large open area with no other cars, lampposts or other things you can hit. It is easy to lose control of a car with a donut.
    2. Begin driving in slow circles.
    3. Hit the gas hard so that the rear tires begin to lose traction.
    4. You will burn around in a circle.

Rollbacks

  1. A rollback is just like a burnout, but performed on a hill. They are a good way to get a burnout in an underpowered car as the backward movement helps with traction after the burn.
    1. Find a hill.
    2. Put the car in first.
    3. Depress the clutch.
    4. Let the car roll backwards down the hill.
    5. Give the car plenty of gas.
    6. Pop the clutch.

Peel-Out

  1. A Peel-Out is when the driver spins the wheels on the road before moving. This is a lesser form of burnout, because the intention is not to cause excessive tire wear, but merely to spin the wheels and create a little squeal. Peel-Outs are far easier and less dangerous to your car than a burnout. To perform the Peel-Out:
    1. Depress the clutch with the car in gear.
    2. Rev the engine high while releasing the clutch.
    3. Peeling-Out is often accomplished simply by flooring the gas pedal. This will not work in cars with small engines.




Tips

  • If the engine stalls you haven’t revved the car high enough before popping the clutch, or your vehicle doesn’t have the power to burnout.
  • To test if your car has enough power nail the gas from a stopped position and see if you can spin the tires.
  • An alternative to a line lock is a “Brake Clamp”. Designed to clamp off a brake line when being worked on, these can also be used to shut off the rear brakes thus allowing only the front brakes to function when the pedal is depressed. Note: most cars have a steel brake line from the brake booster to the rear of the car, the area to put the brake clamp is a short length of rubber hose that attached to the Differential. (some cars have two separate brake lines, one for each side, in which case two brake clamps are required.
  • Try changing your tires. The worse your tires are the easier it is to make them spin, plus they smoke easier and you will not ruin your good tires.
  • Increase the amount of smoke by lubing your drive tires with old motor oil.
  • It can help to give the tires a quick powerful spin before pulling the e-brake (front wheel drive only).
  • Pouring bleach on the area where you plan to burnout will help create more smoke.

Warnings

  • Always wear a seatbelt, and not just for safety but for acceleration.
  • Give any passengers the option to get out before you do this.
  • Burnouts are illegal in almost all municipalities. In Australia you can lose your car. In the USA, especially in California, there are a large variety of infractions that you can be cited with by an officer for burning your car, all included under the Exhibition of Speed laws including:
    • Dry Reckless – California Vehicle Code§ 23103
    • Wet Reckless
    • Off street Parking — As defined in subdivision (c) of Section 12500.
    • Unsafe Turning Movement (U-Turn Burnout or Donut)
    • Unsafe starting/backing of vehicle — California Vehicle Code§ 22106
    • Disorderly conduct with a vehicle — California Vehicle Code §23103
    • Unsafe Start
    • And many more. Each of these infractions is a two-pointer moving violation with no chance of correction by traffic school.
  • Never!!! try to “Pop” the transmission in an automatic car! By revving the engine in neutral and jamming it into gear your transmission box.
  • You can easily destroy or seriously damage a car by doing any of these things.
  • Holding the brakes while gassing the engine is not that bad for your brakes; it is terrible for your engine, however.
  • Watch where you’re going so you don’t hit someone.
  • Watch how much rubber is on your tires so you don’t have a blowout.
  • Check your tire pressure after each burnout.
  • You may cause an axle to break if you try a burnout.
  • You may destroy your clutch if done incorrectly.

Things You’ll Need

  • A car with enough power and appropriate gearing to overcome the traction from the driving wheels.
  • Driving skill.
  • Good tires you don’t mind destroying.
  • A tarmac surface, not sand, gravel or grass.